Travel
Wednesday, April 26, 2006
Day Two: New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas
After driving through four states, we finally arrived in Liberal, Kansas, around nine tonight. We are staying at what can only be described as the most spectacular motel ever built. We saw the Liberal Inn listed in Jim’s AAA guidebook and although there was nothing exceptional about the write-up, we probably passed a dozen motels (including Supers 6 through 9) before we found our latest temporary home on East Pancake Avenue. I think we were drawn here by some inexplicable force (this was confirmed for me when we sat down for dinner and Wichita Lineman started playing on the bar jukebox). I haven’t asked yet, but I think the doors to our rooms used to open to the outside before the owners built a roof over everything. Now the floor-to-ceiling window by the door looks out on a dimly lit hallway. The effect is something like supermax prison meets Japanese capsule hotel. I love it here.
Other great things happened today, too, besides the Liberal Inn. We took a side trip to Santa Fe after we left Albuquerque this morning. We became temporarily lost when Jim’s pickup couldn’t make up its mind whether we had a half tank of gas or just enough to carry us a few miles. Once we finally located a fuel station, we made our way into town over the Santa Fe Trail and the Old Pecos Trail. We had breakfast (tacos!) in one of the oldest buildings in town and then visited a couple of churches. In Texas we saw some pronged horn antelope, and Jim saw what he thought was a roadrunner and a boar’s head in the middle of the road (I’m just telling you what he said). We passed through a town called Hooker with a sign that read “Welcome to Hooker, Home of the Horny Toads.” Oh, and we crossed the Pecos River at least twice.
We are planning to meet with one of Henry Larrabee’s descendants tomorrow as well as visit the cemetery. There is also a museum in town that is located in what used to be the home of one of Larrabee’s sons. And if there’s time, I’m hoping to check out Dorothy’s House and maybe we’ll make it to Dodge City. I have a hunch Jim can get his photo taken with Miss Kitty there.
Day One: California, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico
Pat took this remarkably terrible photo with my cellphone this morning after we met up with Jim in Victorville (it was really bright outside). Once the pickup was loaded, Jim and I headed off in search of Henry Larrabee. Despite an unplanned detour through Nevada (we were attempting to film in the truck and missed our turnoff), we managed to make it all the way to Albuquerque tonight. The day was mostly uneventful, although it was a perfect day for southwest scenery, and Jim kept me entertained with plenty of stories (one of the most interesting was about the Zebra Killings, which took place in San Francisco in the early 1970s). I also tried unsuccessfully to convince my traveling companion to have his photo taken with the “girl in the flatbed Ford” in Winslow, Arizona, after we heard an ad on the radio, but he wouldn’t even slow down to take a look at her. It’s late. I’m tired. More tomorrow....
Sunday, April 16, 2006
Traveling East to See the West
Next week I’m heading to Kansas with a man I met on the Internet. Don’t worry if you’re reading this, Grandma. It’s all legit. We are hot on the trail of Henry P. Larrabee, a man who played a rather notorious role in Humboldt County history, but about whom very little is known. I met my soon-to-be traveling companion, Jim, several years ago on a genealogy discussion board as I was researching a documentary I wanted to make about Blocksburg, which we think was originally called “Laribee” before it became Powellville and then finally Blocksburg. Jim was much further along in his research and had even managed to locate some of Larrabee’s descendants, who--somewhat surprisingly--painted quite a different picture of Larrabee after he returned from the West. It turns out the man was a lot more complex than the facts we originally had allowed us to see. Well, for various reasons my movie never happened, but I became fast friends with Jim and his family, and he has continued to correspond with various members of the Larrabee clan. Over the past couple months, a series of events has made Jim decide it’s time to go meet some of these people in Texas, Kansas, and Montana. And most exciting of all, he’s asked me to come along and record the interviews. Maybe I’ll get to make that movie after all....